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Any one replace their lower ball joints?

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Old 11-04-2013, 02:54 AM
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Well, the OEM was pretty easy to move when I had the lower control arm off. The Deeza was pretty stiff; I never messed with lower ball joints before, so if that's normal then I learned something new. The Deeza doesn't have a cotter pin and it looks like a self locking nut, so the OEM nut might not have worked correctly.

Here it is pressed along with the Tokico blues I installed. My passenger caliper had to be replace also since one of the pistons was seizing. I replaced the driver side as well and need to bleed the brakes tomorrow.
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Old 12-03-2013, 03:53 PM
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Need to replace mine too. I was gonna just get the one from AutoZone but then I checked RockAuto and came up with this:



Anybody use these? Mevotech MS30500. They're much cheaper at $21.99 a pop. I'd be able to replace both fronts for less than the one of the AutoZone ball joints.

I might as well order and be the guinea pig but if anybody else has info on these let me know!
Old 12-03-2013, 07:47 PM
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Interested to know as well, been putting this off for way too long..
Old 12-23-2013, 11:20 PM
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Bump

Also, I'm getting a thud coming from the bottom passenger side when I brake at slow speeds. Anyone have that symptom before their new balljoints were installed? And if so, did it remedy the prob? My boots on both sides are cracked and I would normally assume its the balljoints but I just installed ES compression rod bushings and it didn't do that before. Just coincidently went out at the same time? The sound is like someone knocks on my floor board (like you would knock on a door).

Also, no creaks or squeeks;.Just the thud.
Old 12-24-2013, 01:22 PM
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Yea might be your ball joint but I would think your lower control arm bushing is shot
Old 12-24-2013, 02:30 PM
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I already replaced the LCA bushings. I ordered the steering knuckle ball joints (they're torn and leaking so they need to be replaced either way). But I just rebuilt a lot of my suspension after lowering, so it could be the sway bar end links too. I just hope its not the compression rod ball joints. Those weren't leaking tho, so I'm crossing my fingers.
Old 03-05-2014, 02:01 PM
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Bumping thread... I just read through the thread. My drivers side boot was torn last year, and this brutal winter has pretty much killed it. Its creaking so badly now I'm afraid my wheel is going to fall off.

So from what I gathered, the ebay balljoints are no good, but the Autozone and Rock Auto joints are okay? I know my mechanic wanted to replace the entire spindle since that's what the FSM says, but its completely ludicrous for 1 ball joint. I'll do both sides at the same time, since I have 113K miles on them. I just need to find a shop willing to press them in, its too cold still for me to do it.

Edit: further research shows the Duralast ones are actually OEM balljoints. Autozone site says it will work for my 2005, but has anyone installed these on an 05-06 sedan or 05-07 coupe? I'm starting to believe there was no change in 2005?


Last edited by RADIOGUY21; 03-05-2014 at 02:37 PM.
Old 03-05-2014, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADIOGUY21 View Post
Bumping thread... I just read through the thread. My drivers side boot was torn last year, and this brutal winter has pretty much killed it. Its creaking so badly now I'm afraid my wheel is going to fall off.

So from what I gathered, the ebay balljoints are no good, but the Autozone and Rock Auto joints are okay? I know my mechanic wanted to replace the entire spindle since that's what the FSM says, but its completely ludicrous for 1 ball joint. I'll do both sides at the same time, since I have 113K miles on them. I just need to find a shop willing to press them in, its too cold still for me to do it.

Edit: further research shows the Duralast ones are actually OEM balljoints. Autozone site says it will work for my 2005, but has anyone installed these on an 05-06 sedan or 05-07 coupe? I'm starting to believe there was no change in 2005?

Get the CZP ones from conceptzperformance.com. half the price and I've been rockin em awhile. Holding up great.
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Old 03-10-2014, 02:34 PM
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Just an update, I had my mechanic press in the Autozone BJL148 ball joints on my 2005 RWD sedan. I replaced both sides at the same time and the creaking noise is gone. I will keep an eye on the boots.
Old 03-10-2014, 03:49 PM
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Thank you for this.

Just did both sides on a 2005 coupe. Used beck/arnley joints and installed driver side without any issues(with energy boots, and new shims from Nissan).

However during the install on the right, it seems that the castle nut screws down more than usual, and ended up cracking my energy boots, as well the one from beck/arnley. Not sure if the shim slid down more than it supposed to, but I was wondering if anyone else had this issue? I tried driving the car and it drove like sh*t so I ended up putting back my torn boot leaking grease OEM ones for now.

HELP Please!
Old 03-11-2014, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzer View Post
Thank you for this.

Just did both sides on a 2005 coupe. Used beck/arnley joints and installed driver side without any issues(with energy boots, and new shims from Nissan).

However during the install on the right, it seems that the castle nut screws down more than usual, and ended up cracking my energy boots, as well the one from beck/arnley. Not sure if the shim slid down more than it supposed to, but I was wondering if anyone else had this issue? I tried driving the car and it drove like sh*t so I ended up putting back my torn boot leaking grease OEM ones for now.

HELP Please!
ok I think I figured it out. I did not fix it yet, but what I didnt notice is that the joints I received from Rockauto have a smaller diameter on the bolt section of it. The base is the same size. Since the shims for both are the same size, it will slide down further onto the boot and tear it up. Sigh…hopefully my theory is right. Also I need to replace both sides.
Old 03-23-2014, 01:00 PM
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Finally done, I bought the wrong size shims from part geeks for the beck/arnley ball joints. My original joints do have a bigger diameter on the bolt than the new ones (22mm original nut I.D. vs. 22mm castle nut O.D.). If anyone runs into sizing issues, hopefully this helps.

shim part # for castle nut 22mm O.D.- W0133-1846215
Old 03-23-2014, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzer View Post
Finally done, I bought the wrong size shims from part geeks for the beck/arnley ball joints. My original joints do have a bigger diameter on the bolt than the new ones (22mm original nut I.D. vs. 22mm castle nut O.D.). If anyone runs into sizing issues, hopefully this helps.

shim part # for castle nut 22mm O.D.- W0133-1846215
Are you the original owner? I think the original is 17mm or 19mm. Yours may have been changed before. (If I'm understanding you correctly)

Good job on getting it done!
Old 03-23-2014, 04:18 PM
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Does someone make an aftermarket or is oem fine.. Im gonna replace my lca bushings and compression rod bushings, I should just do this while everything is apart.. Im pushing 98k on my car and most of that lowered..
Old 03-23-2014, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankieg35 View Post
Does someone make an aftermarket or is oem fine.. Im gonna replace my lca bushings and compression rod bushings, I should just do this while everything is apart.. Im pushing 98k on my car and most of that lowered..
Conceptzperformance.com has them for $40/ea if you reuse your old cone shim. $45 for a new cone too. Infiniti won't sell them without the whole knuckle assembly. You can grab duralast from AutoZone, but they're $70/ea I believe.

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arms, average, ball, control, cost, eclipse, fixing, g35, hard, infiniti, joint, joints, lower, lowere, replace, replacement, tein
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