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OBDII PID's

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Old 10-12-2016, 01:31 PM
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OBDII PID's

anyone know anything about custom pids for vq35de im looking for lights on off and turn signals

thanks
Old 12-02-2017, 03:27 PM
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ttt
I would also like to know something about custom PIDs with the Engine Link app.
I have an ABS light on and the ELM327 wifi module and paid Engine Link app show nothing.
I also have VDC off/Slip light on and it doesn't show anything for that either and the knock sensor low input
shows up at the parts store with their scanner, but not mine no... What was the point in buying this thing?
Old 12-02-2017, 03:42 PM
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Exactly which obd2 adapter do you have, just because it says elm327 compliant protocol doesn't mean it has full capability for it. Knockoff's and cheap chinese ones have a bad rep for NOT being fully functional.

I personally have a BAF-X that works pretty damned good.

You are also limited by the functionality of the software, I've never used Engine Link but I think your choices are limited being on an apple device, the app Torque Pro for android has served me faithfully.
Old 12-02-2017, 03:57 PM
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I bought the Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 Scanner from Amazon for $16.99 for iOS or Android. It says Car CEL Diagnostics tool code reader scan tool for '96 and up in the US.

it has 1,300 reviews and has 4 stars

Old 12-02-2017, 04:00 PM
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I think it has something to do with the list of PID's... it's generic and not car vendor specific. It has some GM stuff and Prius lists but I have to use the generic OBD2 list either in metric or english, but has the ability to add custom pids if you know anything about the ECU

Edit: Talking about the Engine Link app here

I am able to read engine speed and vehicle speed, timing advance, coolant temp, torque, horsepower, but not fuel level or vacuum. it works (kind of) but it doesn't really read codes. Kind of lame.

Last edited by TheGuyGuy; 12-02-2017 at 04:18 PM.
Old 12-03-2017, 01:05 AM
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If you want to read more than just the engine codes you need more than just an OBD2 scanner. OBD2 is just a standard protocol that is used by all manufacturers. I've also got some wrong information when looking at my fuel trims using OBD2 mode vs. Nissan/Infiniti mode.

A good cheap scanner I bought for about 115 bucks is the Autel Diaglink. It's a pretty decent OBD2 scanner and then for an extra 15 bucks you can buy vehicle packages. So, I spent an extra 30 dollars and can read all the modules in my Infiniti and Audi. Only thing I can't do is bi-directional control, but I have a VAGCOM for my Audi and Chinese Consult 3 if I need to really get in there.

The Autel is a pretty good product for the price though, however, their support kind of sucks.

Does your car have RAS? My VDC/SLIP/RAS light has been coming on when I make turns usually and I think it's due to the unit in the back, but I've read it's expensive to replace.
Old 12-04-2017, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeysm View Post
Does your car have RAS? My VDC/SLIP/RAS light has been coming on when I make turns usually and I think it's due to the unit in the back, but I've read it's expensive to replace.
Mine has the VDC/Slip lights on. I tried a different app and was able to look at freeze frame data. It showed me the knock sensor code P0327. It was the only thing that came up.
I notice that it was at 100 degrees and at 1,400 rpms, but just now got to thinking that might be in Celsius.
It doesn't show me anything about the VDC/Slip. Which is a malfunction of the YAW sensor according to the auto parts store's scanner.
Old 12-04-2017, 09:41 PM
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Try checking your brake fluid, tire wear, brake pads, and stuff like that before looking at the YAW sensor. Anyway, they can give you a printout of the code and readout?
Old 12-04-2017, 10:15 PM
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I wrote them down. I also had an ABS code w/o a light. The reader said Left Rear, but the internet interpreted it as a Right Rear. Which would make more since because I worked on that corner. Now the ABS light is on, but haven't scanned it yet. My reader/scanner shows no ABS stuff or like I said before the VDC/Slip/Traction Control System stuff. That ABS light has came on before. It was almost a year after working on the RR. I had it scanned and he said RF ABS sensor malfunction. I didn't do anything and the light went out and stayed out for about a month. Now it's back on...
Old 12-04-2017, 10:48 PM
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Ok the ABS code is C1105. The scanner says it is Rear Left Abs Sensor 2.

EDIT: The internet says that code is the Right Rear. Which I had an accident and broke some suspension parts and the clamp holding the boot on the axle came off which I didn't replace. I bet that grease from the axle is getting on the sensor or on the rotor/gear deal and it can't read it correctly.
Old 12-04-2017, 10:53 PM
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Yea, you're regular OBD2 scanner will not probably show those codes. They're not usually included with the standard OBD2 protocol. You need a more advanced scanner that can connect to the ABS, TCM, etc...

The Autel I mentioned previously can do all that, but it's about 130 bucks when it's all said and done. You might be able to find a cheaper model at Harbor Freight that can do similar things or an Actron. You can usually rent a more advanced code scanner at the auto parts stores, so see if they can lend you one.

If you have an ABS light check the sensor and the tone rings on the CV axle. They read the metal gear looking thing and if it's cracked that could set them off. I'm guessing they're all related somehow if you look up the FSM for the G35 check out the BRK section. Gives you some troubleshooting steps.

I think the brake switch can be culprit as well. What codes were you exactly getting?
Old 12-04-2017, 10:55 PM
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Here is C1105 from AllDataDIY.com

Your Vehicle: 2006 Infiniti G35 Coupe V6-3.5L (VQ35DE)

Vehicle A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection C Code Charts C1105


C1105

Wheel Sensor System
First use CONSULT-II self-diagnostic results to determine positions of malfunctioning wheel sensors. Then inspect parts and determine which parts to replace.

CAUTION:
Do not measure the resistance value and also voltage between sensor terminal with tester etc., because sensor is an active sensor.
Do not expand terminal of connector with a tester terminal stick, when it does the inspection with tester.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
CHECK SELF-DIAGNOSTIC RESULTS Check the self-diagnostic results.



Is above displayed in the self-diagnosis display item?
YES >> GO TO 2.
NO >> INSPECTION END.

CHECK TIRE Check air pressure, wear and size.
Are air pressure, wear, and size within standards?
YES >> GO TO 3.
NO >> Adjust air pressure or replace tire.

CHECK CONNECTOR Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect VDC/TCS/ABS control unit connector and connector of wheel sensor where malfunction was detected. Check terminals for deformation and connectors for poor contact. Then reconnect connectors. Also make sure interference with other parts has not cut wheel sensor cables.
Drive vehicle at 30 km/h (19 MPH) or above for at least 1 minute. Does ABS warning lamp turn off?
YES >> INSPECTION END
NO >> GO TO 4.

CHECK SENSOR ROTOR Check sensor rotor teeth and surface of rubber for damage.
OK or NG
OK >> GO TO 5.
NG >> Replace sensor rotor.

CHECK WHEEL SENSOR HARNESS





Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect malfunctioning wheel sensor connector and VDC/TCS/ABS control unit connector.
Check the continuity between terminals. (Also check the continuity when steering wheel is turned right and left and when sensor harness inside wheel well is moved.)





Power supply circuit: Continuity should exist.
Signal circuit: Continuity should exist.
Ground circuit: Continuity should not exist.
OK or NG
OK >> GO TO 6.
NG >> Repair or replace harness and connector that have malfunction.

CHECK WHEEL SENSOR
Replace wheel sensor that resulted in malfunction by self-diagnosis.
Reconnect connectors, drive vehicle at 30 km/h (19 MPH) or more for approximately 1 minute, and then perform self-diagnosis. Is above displayed on self-diagnosis display?
OK >> Wheel sensor has malfunction.
NG >>
Replace VDC/TCS/ABS control unit.
Perform to self-diagnosis again, and make sure that the result shows NO DTC IS DETECTED. FURTHER TESTING MAY BE REQUIRED.
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Old 12-04-2017, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGuyGuy View Post
Ok the ABS code is C1105. The scanner says it is Rear Left Abs Sensor 2.

EDIT: The internet says that code is the Right Rear. Which I had an accident and broke some suspension parts and the clamp holding the boot on the axle came off which I didn't replace. I bet that grease from the axle is getting on the sensor or on the rotor/gear deal and it can't read it correctly.
I didn't read your post all the way through and I highly suspect your assumption is correct. You might want to look into getting a new CV axle if it's been spitting grease everywhere. Raxles.com is a great reman place that reuses OEM axles and I've heard great things and prices. Unless, you want to repackage a CV axle it's not fun and real messy, something I will never do again.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:17 PM
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Unless, you want to repackage a CV axle it's not fun and real messy, something I will never do again.
Yep don't waste your time, just buy another one. I'll have to check out that Raxles.com next time I'm looking for one, never heard of them before but just a quick look at their website they know their ****. Actually replacing bearing races instead of machining them flat again!
Old 12-05-2017, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Yep don't waste your time, just buy another one. I'll have to check out that Raxles.com next time I'm looking for one, never heard of them before but just a quick look at their website they know their ****. Actually replacing bearing races instead of machining them flat again!
I found about them on the Audi forum I frequent. Rackdoctor is another good site, I found out from there for ps racks.

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