Total $ 160
- B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler - $56
- Gates 27058 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose (5/16 x 25ft) - $48
- You only need about 10 feet, so 11-12 feet to be safe. If you can get another 5/16 hose cheaper, go for it. I went with Gates since its quality.
- Precision Brand M6S All Stainless Hose Clamp, 5/16" - 7/8" (Pack of 10) – $8
- Weather Resistant Zip Ties - $8
- 1 Quart of Matic S - $12
- Magnefine 5/16" Inline Magnetic Transmission Filter - $15
- Black Spray Paint - $4
- Local Hardware Store Stainless Supplies $8
*Prices at the time of Purchase
3/8th Magnefine Filter - $15 (For power steering)
Tools I Used
Message from Thescreensavers
- Flat and Philips Head Screw Drivers, Stubby Flat Head
- Good Scissors (For Cutting Hose)
- Socket Wrench- 10mm/12mm Socket with Extensions
- Ramps or Jack Stands (to lift the front)
- Something to bend metal with, I used a small bench vise
- Crescent Wrench and a tool for your Stainless Bolts
- Pliers for hose clamps
- Funnel For Transmission Fluid
- Solder Gun ( or other suitable way to cut the tab in the core support)
- 1 Inch Flat bit wood hole cutter
This DIY guide will attempt to walk you through installing a supplemental transmission cooler and inline Filters install which will extend the life of the unit. You will be removing the front bumper and cutting, bending and routing lines. You will also be drilling some holes to route the hoses, We used factory bolt up points so that we did not have to do too much drilling. We wanted the best bends for optimal flow. This guide is aimed at the DIY mechanics of rupromenergo.ru and beyond, it will attempt to show you most of the steps
. There will have to be some improvising and general knowledge on working on cars to succeed. If you just started changing your oil I’d advise you to ask a friend who is more knowledgeable in this area to help. Installing this cooler if you know what you are doing is relatively easy.
Please familiarize yourself with this DIY guide and ensure you are ready to do this to your car.
Take your Corners out and push the connector though the bumper
Jack up your Car
If you do not know how watch
It’s a great video.
Once the Front of the car is lifted, you may now start taking the fender liners out
This is the driver side; just turn your wheel all the way to the right and the opposite for the other side. You will need a flat head to pry these three clips out. Some will break its normal.
Now with a Philips Head Screwdriver loosen these two, these are on the top of the fender inside
Remove the under body and then remove the fender liners by removing the 10MM bolts, there will also be two clips like we encountered in the Fender Liner in RED, with the under body removed its easy to get to them.
Up to this point,
1. Your car should be in the air Supported by jack stands or ramps, never go under the car with just the hydraulic jack or the cars scissor jack they can fail.
2. You should have the underbody off and both driver and passenger wheel liners as well. You don't really have to take the Passenger wheel liner off, but you should if you would like to do the Optional Power Steering In line filter show later in this DIY.
Now we are going to remove the bumper
With a Flat head remove these clips
Add some Tape to the end of the front fenders to protect them
Now go down to your front fenders and now you should see two 10MM Bolts.
Do this on both sides of the car. Now the bumper should be free
Remove the Foam by pulling it off
Also remove these air dams as well (You really only need to take the Driver side off)
Now your car should look similar to this
Go ahead and disconnect the battery using a 10mm Open ended wrench
We will be using this factory mounting point for the radiator its 10MM, get some pliers and pull the wire from the bracket.
Now we want to loosen these 4, 12MM bolts that hold the crash bar. Remember I said loosen not off.
Keep one of the bolts still threaded in but loose (Like in the picture below) and start figuring out how you will bolt up the radiator. (Brackets come with the B&M Supercooler kit)
If you notice the silver bracket, the hole on the brackets supplied with the B&M Cooler is not big enough for the 12mm Bolt. Also take note to the 12MM bolt that still is threaded.
We marked up the hole to cut and drilled it out (used a 23/64) we also used tin snips to cut the extra bit off
Now we removed the Bracket holding the wire from / and we are going to cut it, It is no longer needed. The Red/Yellow line is our intended cut
I did not want to use the supplied hardware with the B&M kit and opted to go with shorter Stainless Steel Hardware
I believe these are 1/4 inch Bolts(forgot exactly), with Washer and Nylon Locking Nuts, Bring one of the B&M Bolts with you to your local hardware store so you can get the same size. We got 6 Bolts/Locking Nuts, and 12 Washers. Always good to have some extras.
When we were mocking up the radiator we noticed this Tab was in our Way so we took care of it. ( Don't breath the smoke its toxic)
Some 120 Grit Sand Paper to smooth it out, Use diagonal cutters to cut some of the fibers
Now we can move the bracket to where we want it.
Bending of a bracket so that the radiator sits flat, we used a small bench vice and marked where we needed to bend it
Here is a picture of where we are going to mount a bracket, Using one of the 12mm Bolts that hold the crash bar ( this is the bottom two bolts for the crash bar)