g35 no crank, no electric - - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion | rupromenergo.ru
Show Your Support Become A Premier Member

    > >
  • Reload this Page >
    • g35 no crank, no electric


g35 no crank, no electric

Thread Tools Rate Thread
Old 06-24-2017, 06:56 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
g35 no crank, no electric

Hello,

I have a 2004 G35 coupe. I went to start the car and it wouldn't start...I noticed there was a lot of build up of corrosion on the positive terminal so I cleaned it up and was able to start the car. Fast forward a month or so and I ran into the same issue and again cleaned the terminal/connector and was able to start the car. I was driving it yesterday and it died on me while idling...I popped the hood and there was no corrosion this time. Called AAA for a jump and the car wouldn't jump start so I towed home. While hooking it up for the tow I noticed that the headlights were flashing as if the hazards were on but they weren't, also when I put the key in the ignition it makes the beeping noises so there is some power there electric wise. I took the battery down to autozone and had it tested and it had 100 percent charge but a dead cell...the voltage I believe was 12.5. I bought a new battery...hooked it up and am still having the same issue. No crank, no dash lights or power or any signs of electric other than putting the key in the ignition and hearing the beeping noises. When I turn the ignition to start the car I get absolutely nothing. I was thinking maybe the alternator but considering that the battery had 100 percent charge when I had it tested I figured that wouldn't be the problem. I am curious if anyone can help to troubleshoot what might be going on. Any info is appreciated.


EDIT : Also the check engine light has been on for a month or so. The codes I am getting are P0037, P0031 and P0300. I know the P0037 I know these can cause the car not to start but am I don't believe they would have anything to do with not having any electric as far as dash lights, clock etc.

Last edited by 6mt635; 06-24-2017 at 07:00 PM.
Old 06-24-2017, 07:11 PM
's Avatar
Cleric670
Join Date: May 2017
location: Washington State
Posts: 1,956
Thanked 181 Times in 177 Posts
Heavy corrosion on the battery terminal posts is a sure indicator that you have a slow drain on the system because something is leaking current to ground. This also explains a dead cell battery and the constant state of discharge you're experiencing.

Start looking around for wiring issues, do you have an aftermarket stereo? Does anything in the vehicle NOT WORK? Tear up the panels in the trunk if you have a bose stereo and look for wiring problems on the amp, something is probably pinched SOMEWHERE and causing the current leak. Has the vehicle every been involved in an accident? Look through the headlight/parking lamp/turn indicator wiring for anything that's pinched or damaged.

A band-aid fix while you are troubleshooting this issue is a battery disconnect that you use every time you leave the car for any length of time. This way it won't be constantly draining the battery which is going to quickly DESTROY that new battery.


This could be a difficult issue to fix unfortunately, as an electrician the proper way to find the problem is to literally disconnect everything and use a megohmeter to check the insulation on every wire, it's probably not something that would be feasible for you though unfortunately. Electrical gremlins suck.


In the meantime, re-clean the terminal and cable lug with a wire brush and jump-start the vehicle or unplug the battery and get it on a charger to make sure it's actually at 100% capacity and get it running with that new battery installed, they may have sold you a discharged battery. Also, not sure what you are using to prevent oxidation on the battery terminals and cable lugs but try to use this stuff.


The "corrosion inhibitor/terminal spray" they sell at the auto-shops is junk, ilsco de-ox can be purchased at any electrical supply house or home depot / lowe's and is REALLY good stuff.
Old 06-24-2017, 07:42 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Heavy corrosion on the battery terminal posts is a sure indicator that you have a slow drain on the system because something is leaking current to ground. This also explains a dead cell battery and the constant state of discharge you're experiencing.

Start looking around for wiring issues, do you have an aftermarket stereo? Does anything in the vehicle NOT WORK? Tear up the panels in the trunk if you have a bose stereo and look for wiring problems on the amp, something is probably pinched SOMEWHERE and causing the current leak. Has the vehicle every been involved in an accident? Look through the headlight/parking lamp/turn indicator wiring for anything that's pinched or damaged.

A band-aid fix while you are troubleshooting this issue is a battery disconnect that you use every time you leave the car for any length of time. This way it won't be constantly draining the battery which is going to quickly DESTROY that new battery.



This could be a difficult issue to fix unfortunately, as an electrician the proper way to find the problem is to literally disconnect everything and use a megohmeter to check the insulation on every wire, it's probably not something that would be feasible for you though unfortunately. Electrical gremlins suck.


In the meantime, re-clean the terminal and cable lug with a wire brush and jump-start the vehicle or unplug the battery and get it on a charger to make sure it's actually at 100% capacity and get it running with that new battery installed, they may have sold you a discharged battery. Also, not sure what you are using to prevent oxidation on the battery terminals and cable lugs but try to use this stuff.



The "corrosion inhibitor/terminal spray" they sell at the auto-shops is junk, ilsco de-ox can be purchased at any electrical supply house or home depot / lowe's and is REALLY good stuff.

First and foremost...thank you for the response and also such a quick one. I really appreciate it.

As of now the battery is disconnected. I do not have any aftermarket stereo or electronics. The only thing that DOES WORK in the vehicle is the beeping noise it makes when I put the key into the ignitin...everything else (dash lights, clock, radio, windows, trunk, seats etc) does not work. The car has not been in any accidents and it is a base model so there is no bose system or navigation etc.

I took a few pics of the wiring to the negative terminal because they look a little frayed...not sure if the two exposed wires touched if that would have caused this issue. I also took a picture of the harness that holds the fusible link. There was a blown fuse in the fusible link 2 months ago and the shop I took it to for an opinion said that the harness was okay to still use and to just replace the fusible link. The harness had slightly been melted when the fusible link fuse blew which was a result (I believe) of trying to start/jump the car with a dead battery a few months ago. The car has been running with no electric problems with the harness the way it is since the fusible link was replaced.

I tried jumpstarting it yesterday and the car won't even jumpstart at this point. Funds are a little low so I'm already disappointed that I spent money on the battery only to find out it didn't fix the issue. Below are pics of the cables connecting to the negative terminal and also of the fusible link harness.






Last edited by 6mt635; 06-24-2017 at 07:49 PM.
Old 06-24-2017, 09:25 PM
's Avatar
Cleric670
Join Date: May 2017
location: Washington State
Posts: 1,956
Thanked 181 Times in 177 Posts
Both those components need to be replaced, they're fried.

Negative wire looks like the secondary ground to chassis (the one that's landed under that rusty bolt) is not making a good connection at all. Considering how badly frayed those wires are I would suggest cutting off those lugs and getting a generic battery terminal to replace the whole thing, they look like this.



Then you can just take both those ground wires and land them under the same termination point, just de-ox everything good so it won't corrode too bad, it's not an IDEAL fix but it's cheap.

DON'T BYPASS THE FUSIBLE LINK WITH ANOTHER GENERIC BATTERY TERMINAL LIKE THE NEGATIVE SIDE, IT KEEPS YOUR VEHICLE FROM BURNING TO THE GROUND DUE TO ELECTRICAL FAULTS!

DO NOT BYPASS THAT FUSIBLE LINK WITH ANOTHER GENERIC BATTERY TERMINAL LIKE THE NEGATIVE SIDE, IT KEEPS YOUR CAR FROM BURNING TO THE GROUND DUE TO ELECTRICAL FAULTS!

EDIT: DO NOT BYPASS THAT FUSIBLE LINK WITH ANOTHER GENERIC TERMINAL, IT KEEPS YOU FROM BURNING YOUR CAR TO THE GROUND!

The fusible link it a bit harder, but you should be able to junkyard one or maybe even find at a parts house for around $20, I think they're literally all the same for all nissan's. I've NEVER seen a fusible link blow from a jumpstart though (but it can happen if the jumper cables fall off and cause an arc or something), that thing is designed to open circuit when the amount of current (amps) being drawn through it exceeds it's rating, the starter can't do that on it's own unless it's being held in the start position and cranking the motor for WAY too long. Don't crank the motor for more than 5-6 seconds at a time and allow time for the cable to cool between crank attempts, it blew so the cable wouldn't catch on fire.

The damage to the fusible link further reinforces my theory that you have an electrical fault in the system somewhere, I would fully remove both the positive and negative cables and fully inspect for damage/corrosion before trying to start the vehicle again.

Last edited by [email protected]; 06-24-2017 at 09:30 PM. Reason: Big capital letter warning
Old 06-25-2017, 09:45 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,361
Thanked 85 Times in 78 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6mt635 View Post
Hello,

...I took the battery down to autozone and had it tested and it had 100 percent charge but a dead cell...
That statement is funny

You had a useless battey!

No go replace your frayed battery cables, a new battery, test alternator output and start from there.

Telcoman
Old 06-26-2017, 05:23 AM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6mt635 View Post
First and foremost...thank you for the response and also such a quick one. I really appreciate it.

As of now the battery is disconnected. I do not have any aftermarket stereo or electronics. The only thing that DOES WORK in the vehicle is the beeping noise it makes when I put the key into the ignitin...everything else (dash lights, clock, radio, windows, trunk, seats etc) does not work. The car has not been in any accidents and it is a base model so there is no bose system or navigation etc.

I took a few pics of the wiring to the negative terminal because they look a little frayed...not sure if the two exposed wires touched if that would have caused this issue. I also took a picture of the harness that holds the fusible link. There was a blown fuse in the fusible link 2 months ago and the shop I took it to for an opinion said that the harness was okay to still use and to just replace the fusible link. The harness had slightly been melted when the fusible link fuse blew which was a result (I believe) of trying to start/jump the car with a dead battery a few months ago. The car has been running with no electric problems with the harness the way it is since the fusible link was replaced.

I tried jumpstarting it yesterday and the car won't even jumpstart at this point. Funds are a little low so I'm already disappointed that I spent money on the battery only to find out it didn't fix the issue. Below are pics of the cables connecting to the negative terminal and also of the fusible link harness.





LOL. I appreciate the warning being as clear as it is. The fusible link holder is actually OK...all of the fuses are intact. Its the harness the fusible link holder connects to that's damaged. The last fusible link that went bad caused the harness connected to it to burn/melt the outside plastic and connecting metal inside. Do you happen to know what that harness is called?
Old 06-26-2017, 01:24 PM
coffeysm's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 1,107
Thanked 123 Times in 106 Posts
Wow, that looks gnarly. I would replace those ground cables and clean up the areas they connect to. That connector needs to be replaced and there is no way you are getting a good connection from it. I would start at the connector and follow the wire down.

Check it out for damage, perform continuity, and voltage drop tests. I'd either source a replacement, junk yard, or get some thick copper cable and then splice/solder. If you're battery had dead cell maybe it caused a huge current spike and fried all of that.

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:36 AM.


Copyright ©2002 - 2017, rupromenergo.ru All Rights Reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in:

Related pages


nissan p0340 coderockford fosgate p3 subwooferwhy is my gas mileage droppingtie rod boot clamp toolcatalytic converter legal in californiasquaretire350z springsg35 hpthumping noise when brakinghow to reset a service engine soon lightrockford fosgate p1000-1bdpop a lock fayetteville nccustom lcd instrument clusterhow to clean a cone air filterviper 791xv manual2006 g35 turbo kitbody shops mississaugaguelph oil change2007 infiniti g35xsoundstream reference 705yakima kingjoeinfiniti g37 specs 2012precision turbo rebuild kitpnc used car loansaltima with rimssigns of a bad mass air flow sensorgloss black vinyl roof wrapclutch 350z2jz swap pricepontiac g8 gt forumar383 blue clean2005 330iaftermarket stereo wiring harnessaltima with maxima wheelstorque wrench autozoner1 concepts rotorspnc bank payoffinfiniti g35 seat coversduralast reviewswald kit19x12streching tireswhere to apply brake lubricantaem air filter cleaningcalifornia law window tinthow much is a crankshaftforged specialties wheelsi just replaced my brakes and they are squeakingis your car totaled if the airbags deploybeyma americanexen n5000 plusg37 exhaust on g35sts turbo problemsmegan coilovers 240sxyellow top optima autozoneplenum intakediono radian rxt buy buy babynav2gotein s lowering springsturbo kit for infiniti g35acid for aluminum wheels370z forumsiphone transfer contacts bluetooth carhow often to change rear differential fluidloosen serpentine belt tensionersunroof tintlf rimsg37 car coverscratched rim fixg35 auxremoving resonator from exhaust systemg35 coupe wide body kit